salamedifabriano

Fabriano salami of our own production

The Marche top line product from the pork butcher cuts is produced in our pork cold cuts butcher shop

The production and the history of the Salame di Fabriano (Fabriano salami) has been so long in our heritage, that its traces are almost lost, the first reliable source leads us back to the mid 1800’s. In 1877 this typical Fabriano produce is launched within its popular local traditions in the works by Oreste Marcoaldi author of “Usanze e Pregiudizi” (Customs and Prejudice); "I vocaboli più genuini del vernacolo" (The Genuine words from the Vernacular); "Canti e proverbi del popolo fabrianese" (Songs and Proverbs of the Fabriano citizens); whom states that the Fabriano speciality of ‘salami’ is to Fabriano like ‘mortadella’ (bologna sausage) is to Bologna, or ‘zampone’ (stuffed pig’s trotter) is to Modena.
In confirmation of the fame of the Fabriano salami is also read in a letter of thanks by Giuseppe Garibaldi to his friend in Fabriano Benigno Bignonzetti dated 1881, whereby the General thanks his friend for the “very fine salamis received”, referring to the “salamis made with lean pork cuts, without fat or sinew, ever so finely ground, interspersed with one hundred and twenty lardoons, of which twenty four cut into cubes, all seasoned with salt and black pepper”.
Tradition also has it that the meat used should come from the black pork from the inland ‘Alta Valle dell’Esino’ (the upper Esino valley). This testimony indicates how this salami was made by the “butchering” of different breeds; the past was dominated by the black breed, currently the proportion has been inverted. But more so than the breed was the farming technique used; in fact, according to the research by Jacini “it is the method used to rear the pig which produces ecstatic organoleptic sensations”. Method was intended as actual rearing and farming technique (also including their natural state in the wild) and the type of fodder used. In relation to the fodder we should note that the acorn was a fundamental element for the feeding even in the hypothesis of permanent stabling. In any case it meant that the pigs were well fattened, over a period of not less than one and half years.
There is a saying in the mountainous villages of which confirms the edict “slaughter the pigs that have reached two hundredweight by two Christmases”.
The testimonies by Marcoaldi and Jacini complete their works with a research carried out by the Scholastic District of Fabriano which demonstrates that around 1950 the Fabriano salami had remained faithful to its culinary tradition and flavour, albeit the inevitable evolution in animal breeding techniques over the years.

The characteristics of the “Salame di Fabriano” (Fabriano salami)

The production of the “Salame di Fabriano” uses meat cuts selected from the thigh, the shoulder (outer only); the lard is taken from the fatty tissue from the spinal-loin or from the upper neck, cut into small cubes (a quantity in proportion to the lean meat mixture), salted and blended at length. The meat is minced into two transformations via the mincing plates until a fine grain mixture is attained, salted, peppered and pepper corns added, then mixed with the lard cubes (1 to 1½ cm in diameter) pressed into the sausage gut, using the section of the delicate gut which adapts well to the lengthy maturation cycle and also because it bestows a distinctive aroma. The salt added is based on 28 – 29 gm/kg while the ground pepper and pepper corns are based on 0.4 and 1 gram per kilogram of meat (calculated on the minced mixture).
No preservatives are added. Every slaughtered pig can produce about 28 to 30 Kilograms of salamis. The salami, tied at both ends with a single piece of hemp string, is hung and matured for 2 – 3 days in an oven dryer to allow the gut to dry – the gut which previous to its use for the salami is cleaned with hot water or white wine. Then the salami enters the maturation chamber and remains there for 3 months at a constant temperature of 14°C and a humidity of about 80%.
The salami has reached the right degree of maturation when its shape is a cylindrical form presenting a light spring to the touch; at the table the slice displays a compacted meat grain, a brown colour tending towards dark due to lack of preservatives, very white lard, soft and aromatic taste inclining towards sour (without any predominant spicy flavours).
The dimensions of the salami produced, according to the local traditions, should be such as to reach 5 to 6 hectograms after maturation.

The “Salame di Fabriano” and the Marche

The accounts that the production of the Salame di Fabriano is typical of the Marche region and in particular to the geographical area as noted in art.2 of the regulation act for the production of the salami, are numerous and only a few have been mentioned in the act in the historical proof section.
It is thanks to all the written account from the Marche literature available on pork butchery that we have been able to place and define the existing relationship, nowadays and in the past, between the Salame di Fabriano and the Alta Valle dell’Esino territory. The tradition in fact relates that the meat used for production of the Fabriano salami should be that from the pigs bred in the inland territory of the Alta Valle dell’Esino (upper Esino valley).
That the best meat cuts and the superior lard be taken from the autochthonous Marche swine (in the past of a dark colour and rough bristle, nowadays derived from crossbreeding with other national breeds) is substantiated in the “Atti della giunta per l'inchiesta Agraria e sulle condizioni della classe agricola” (acts from the committee for the agriculture inquiry and conditions of the agriculture class” volume XI of the Tomo II.
In certain inland areas of the Ancona province there still exists, as in the past, the tradition whereby the use of the Fabriano salami is considered unique in respect to other Italian regions. In fact in local farming lore the Fabriano salami was one of the first cold cuts to be served in the Easter celebrations. It was always on the table in the Marche households both for its fine taste as well as its high regard in the art of pork cold cuts. The pork butchery with its rites and respect conferred upon the Pork butcher, that whom was called after the slaughter for his ability to carry out the “Pista” (the procedures for the transformation of the fresh pork cuts into cold cuts) or as was habitually known of in the Marche as the “Salata” (salting/spicing). The art of the Pork butcher has its beginnings on the borders between Dorica and Umbria and then evolved in the regional territory from the inland to the sea area, with a significance not found in any other region.

Description of the Salame di Fabriano regulation

Name: Salame di Fabriano
Description: Cylindrical shape, covered in genuine gut and pieces varying in weight from 400 to 700 hectograms. The consistency is slightly springy to the touch, brown colour tending towards dark and an even distribution of the lardoons.
Geographical Area: The production of the Salame di Fabriano takes place in the municipalities of Fabriano, Arcevia, Cerreto D'esi, Genga, Serra San Quirico, Sassoferrato (AN), Matelica, Esanatoglia, (MC), Serra Sant'Abbondio, Frontone, Pergola (PU), Fiuminata and Pioraco.
Proof of Origin: In 1877 the typical Fabriano salami product comes to be within the popular lore of the Marche town due to the account by Oreste Marcoladi, author of “Usanze e Pregiudizi” (Customs and Prejudice); "I vocaboli più genuini del vernacolo" (The Genuine words from the Vernacular); "Canti e proverbi del popolo fabrianese" (Songs and Proverbs of the Fabriano citizens); in one of his dictionaries, at the only entry for salami “salsiccione, salame” states that it is a Fabriano specialty, just as ‘mortadella’ (bologna sausage) is to Bologna, or ‘zampone’ (stuffed pig’s trotter) is to Modena.
The acknowledgement of Fabriano salami is also testified in a thank-you letter by Giuseppe Garibaldi in the year 1881 to his friend Benigno Bignonzetti in Fabriano. In this letter General Garibaldi thanks his friend for the “the salamis he had received were excellent”, referring to the “salamis made wholly with lean pork cuts, in other words having removed fat and sinew, very finely minced, with the addition of one hundred and twenty, of which twenty cut into cubes, seasoned with sale and black pepper”.
The method used: The primary produce are white or black breed swine, so long as they are bred and genealogically raised in the Umbria – Marche Apennine territory, except where provided for in Art. 2 of the regulation; the ideal age is at least 12 months.
The production of the Fabriano salami uses only the superior first quality cuts taken from the shoulder (outer part only), from the thigh and adding the hind quarters;
the fat is taken from the spinal loin and represents 14%.
The lard, cut into cubes, is salted and mixed with the meat cuts.
The meat cuts go into the mincer using the larger mincing plate, then the minced meat goes into the mincer a second time using the finer mincing plate in order to attain a fine grain mince. The mince is then seasoned with 27-29 grams of salt per kilogram of product; ground black pepper and peppercorns (maximum 5 grams); and white wine.
Then the mince is placed in the sausage gut taken from the delicate intestine which has been previously desalted (prior to the sausaging) via washing in white wine, vinegar and hot water.
Following a drying period of 2 or 3 days in slow burning fire heated rooms, the next phase of maturation takes 3 months with a constant temperature around 14°C with a humidity of around 80%.

The "Salame di Fabriano" and its relationship to the area

The tradition handed down over the years wants that the pork cuts used in the production of Fabriano salami should be that the swine are bred and raised in the Umbria – Marche Apennine territory. (“Atti della giunta per l'inchiesta Agraria e sulle condizioni della classe agricola” (acts from the committee for the agriculture inquiry and conditions of the agriculture class” volume XI of the Tomo II).
In certain inland areas of the Ancona province there still exists, as in the past, the tradition whereby the use of the Fabriano salami is considered unique in respect to other Italian regions. In fact in local farming lore the Fabriano salami was one of the first cold cuts to be served in the Easter celebrations. It was always on the table in the Marche households both for its fine taste as well as its high regard (what a wonderful and unique development experienced in the Dorica region) in the art of pork cold cuts.
Quality Control Outline: The quality control of the product in relation to the regulation is initially carried out by the “Costituendo1 Consorzio di Produzione e Tutela del Salame di Fabriano” (constituent consortium for the production and protection of the Fabriano salami).
The “Commissione di Controllo del Consorzio” (consortium commission for quality control)

should be structured as follows:

- a representative of the Comune di Fabriano (municipality);
- a representative of the Coltivatori Diretti (Farmers);
- a representative of the consortium for pork butchers;
- a representative of the consortium for animal breeders;
- a Veterinary Surgeon

The conformity to the sensory profile of the Fabriano salami from the products produced, prior to their release in the market place, will be verified by a technical Commission for tasting, composed by expert members in the gastronomy sector and typical produce of quality and nominated by way of the “Consiglio di Amministrazione” (administrative assembly) according to the modality as stated in the statute. The commission’s role is to prevent, in order to safeguard and protect the trademark, the sale of those products that are considered unsuitable.
Labelling: The salamis must be provided with a seal in order to guarantee the conformity to the production regulations and followed by a label which guarantees the origin and identification of the product (trademark logo, company name, address of the farmer and/or producer). The products, as well, will be provided with a printed certification on hand made watermarked paper, manufactured by the “Museo della Carta e della Filigrana di Fabriano” (Paper and Watermark Museum of Fabriano).

Production regulation for the Fabriano salami